Laguna Blanca

On Monday the 29^th we took a bus from Rosario to La Paz, which is in the Entre Rios province. Really, we could have made the journey by boat (not actually affordable), but both city’s sit on the Rio Paraná. Our bus broke down along the way so we were late, and our ride had to sit around the tiny bus station for over an hour.

Esekel, a super cool Argentinean dude, picked us up from the bus station. He his only 2 years older than Ivan, and is loving life here on the Tompkin’s farm. During the 30 minute drive from the bus station, we talked about the differences and affects of conventional agriculture (aka: intensive inputs, trans-genic crops, and chemicals), versus the Organic agriculture we were going to witness at the Laguna Blanca estancia. Ivan was too involved in his Monsanto rant to notice our incredible speed through the cornfields, but poor Kristin was bouncing around the back seat like a fish on land. It was completely dark when we drove up to the compound, so it had a mystical feel, with the beautiful new buildings framed by the bright stars. Even without light, we were already in awe by the beauty and aesthetics of the place. Also, after so many days on the road, and with so many hostels (good and deplorable), we were so grateful for such a cozy room with soft sheets and firms mattresses, a beautiful tiled shower with a waterfall of fresh well water, and even a ceiling fan to cut the heat! Needless to say, but we felt incredibly spoiled!

Sunrise on the Estancia

The Estancia is owned by Kris and Doug Tompkins, and their partner Eduardo Chorén. It is over 7,400 acres of both beautiful farmland and wild habitat. Not only does it border along the Rio Parana, but it also has its own beautiful lagoon (aka: Laguna Blanca). The farm has over 2000 acres in production, with a focus on organic agriculture, biodiversity, aesthetics, and relationships between people and land. It has really been a treat to get such first-class treatment from the happy employees, as well as a glimpse of a progressive and exemplary large-scale operation. The production is all very new and forthcoming, but we would love to see it 5-10 years from now when it is in full tilt (especially the fruit trees!). In the near future, Eduardo is planning to process wine, beer, dried fruit, olive oil, and other delicious rewards from the land.

KK's cinnamon roll land

Laguna Blanca

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Production includes: the 12 tree varieties, wheat, soy, corn, oats, barley, as well as a few other grains. Of course everything is organic! The difference was very obvious, when compared to the HUGE factory farm next to the Estancia, where there were 2 crops: transgenic corn, and soy. Though its size was impressive, the toll it was taking on the land was depressing. Fortunately we were on the healthy side of the fence!

Both land in production, and corridors for wild animals.

One of several barrancas on the property

Wheat sunset

Trees on the mirador

Kristin by the organic corn - all so pretty!

gusanitos on the Laguna Blanca Organic corn...

Neighbor's trans-genic corn... Kristin says: "Sure, it might look pretty on the outside, but GMO corn is like plastic surgery; it may look good on the exterior, but it sure is ugly on the inside!!"

Waking up on the estancia (6am was a bit of a shocker after city life..!) was a treat. The sun was just peeking over the horizon, and the birds were already in full activity. Breakfast, unfortunately for Kristin, isn’t really much in Argentina, so some hard bread and tea was a tough way for her to start the work day. However, the subsequent days we became comfortable in the kitchen and were able to make our own treats (like coffeeee!).

The first morning we split up, with Ivan hopping on a ¾ ton trailer with 22 smiling workers, and Kristin on a Polaris to analyze soil and collect moths from a light-trap. The workers immediately took an interest in Ivan, and he felt right at home with the farm implements, sweat, and jovial manual laborers. Of course, he still talks like a total Mexican, so his accent and farm verbage weren’t totally understood, but since then he has improved quite a bit and has a lot of fun cracking jokes with the guys. Franco, the main foreman of the frutales section, gave Ivan a really in-depth tour of the 12 different fruit and nut trees, and showed him the ropes. Later, Ivan shadowed Maria Teresa, a really nice Senora and inginiera, who is the only woman, but also in charge of watering schedules, pruning, and monitoring of the trees.

Riding back with the guys for some milanesas and rice

Kristin’s first experience was some one-on-one time with a really nice guy named Gustavo, who spoke only Castellano, and the extent of his English was counting from one to five and expletives he has heard in American movies. Kristin was anxious that her grasp of Spanish (both understanding and speaking) were truly going to be put to the test today. Surprisingly, Kristin was able to understand most of what he said and described (the Italian influence totally helps because they constantly talk with their hands!) and was able to keep up when he fired away questions about California. The first job was to collect bichos (moths) that were caught in a light-trap. The reason being, a particular moth species is really damaging to the organic corn crops. The trap doesn’t control the populations, but it does help to monitor their numbers and determine what organic method would be best to stop their voracious chewing. Later, Kristin convinced Gustavo to let her romp the Polaris to the next destination (she had the need for speed!!): to a soy plot on the opposite side of the estancia where they would collect soil samples. These soil samples are taken at random (20 per plot) which will later be taken to a lab to be analyzed (this made Kristin feel right at home—getting down and dirty!). Basically, we both jumped right into farm life with authentic and incredibly kind Argentineans.

Light trap for the moths

Over the next few days, we were able to get a wide view of everything that happens on the estancia. Ivan’s favorite activity was, of course, beekeeping! His suit was for someone 6 inches shorter and was an absolute oven in the 35+ degree heat, but he still had a blast robbing honey, capturing queens, grafting larvae, and learning a lot of the different techniques used by bee-keepers here. We also harvested some fresh raspberries, which Kristin has put into several delectable desserts from scratch, as well as delicious fresh marmalade. Franco, Ezquel, Flaco, and Ivan were rubbing their bulging tummies with big smiles after kk’s desserts, and Kristin now has a reputation with the other sweet-tooth’s on the estancia. Accordingly, we had to learn how to make Dulce de Leche, which will probably serve us well for a lifetime!! Yummmm. Some other recipes were also taught to us by the friendly cocineras.

Heading out to the bee yard

Changing out the queen

Ivan trying his hand at grafting! An incredible feat considering he forgot his glasses!!

At the mirador, venting the suit!

On the following days, we were able to tail different people who were each an expert in their field of study or practice. One day we followed a stone-fruit expert who demonstrated how to prune the young trees. We got to try our hand at some plum, walnut, and pecan trees, where we cut off unwanted growth from the base of the tree. It definitely proved that pruning is a subjective art!

A real treat was spending a whole day with Don Hector, an organic farmer who truly embodies the agrarian ideal. He rides a bus every other week from Uruguay and stays for a week at a time at Laguna Blanca. His job is very encompassing since he has to analyze soil samples, construct morphological maps, and monitor both beneficial insects as well as pests; and to develop strategies that reduces weeds, retains organic matter in the soil, and prevents erosion during the rain season. During the morning we walked around the fruit trees and looked at the soil to asses its moisture content and organic matter. Kristin was being a smartypants-magu during this section and was able to exchange a whole lot of words that left Ivan feeling like a toothless redneck. He was also very interested in the Van Wingerden avocadoes, and was especially excited to hear about the epic mulching project. After a morning under the intense sun, we gratefully gathered into the cool quincho for some delicious food and stimulating company. After the meal, we spent 2 more hours with Hector as he explained his educational powerpoints that covered the Laguna Blanca Estancia, his own farm in Uruguay, and research from both UC Davis and Berkeley. Kristin was very excited since it showed numerical data of previous soil data, and she was able to discuss and visualize what was taking place on the Estancia over the past couple of years. Ivan was rapt during the section on beneficial insects and progressive IPM techniques, some of which are being used at Ever-Bloom now (but a couple new ideas to bring home!). We have been able to spend some more time with him over the following days, which has been very stimulating, since he is a fountain of agrarian knowledge.

Talking up the soil!

Collecting soil samples!

During a tour of the property with Esekel, Franco, Flaco, and ourselves, we happened across a group of small pigs. We had been hearing about these nefarious “chancho’s,” but had only seen the damage they incurred. Looking at the little porkers, it was hard to imagine such little piglets could incur so much damage. Out came the 357, and we were in hot pursuit into the trees (minus Kristin who wisely avoided a whole lot of cuts and burrs : ). The smart oinkers disappeared into the brush, but that didn’t stop Ivan and Esekel from going out the following night to try our hand again. Amazingly they popped out in almost the same spot we’d seen them before, but the pigs uncannily zigged and zagged across a tilled field and miraculously avoided harm (even though 2 shots were fired at them..!). On Tuesday night (fortunately before a holiday), Ivan went out with 4 other guys as they charged through the night in a Hilux with searchlights scanning for the tricksters. Unfortunately, after 2 hours of getting bounced around in the bed of the truck, we didn’t see even 1 chancho!! However, we did get to see tons of other fauna, like: deer, foxes, armadillos, owls, huge toads, bats, and some other hoofed animals that we don’t have in the states. It was a very fun, manly, ordeal!

Overlooking the Rio Parana

Some Artsy Pictures:

A follow-up blog of more pictures and our impressions should be up in a few days...